Reply MY July 27,9:
This is still a good quick overview, but the details are better here. So why am I bothering to write another one? This is what I came up with. My goals for the process are: Whatever I do needs to cost as little as possible Clean.
I want to minimize nasty chemicals that are difficult to use, store, and dispose of Tidy. I want to be able to use small traces, and make compact boards.
This technique is great for small boards and complex layouts. Excuse the mess on the three large pads at the bottom. More on that later. The first step is to make a board layout.
The SparkFun tutorials are a really good place to start.
After that, read the manuals that come with the software. Here's my board, in Eagle. Note that I tell the autorouter to use 0. This etching technique works well on traces that small, and you can make a much more complex board without resorting to dual layers or lots of jumpers.
A layout grid that is double the resolution of the component grid solves a lot of routing problems, in my experience. I hide all layers in Eagle except the bottom traces, then print it to a PDF.
This works great because it's very high pixel density.
That's critical to getting small traces to work. Many tutorials will tell you to use the Image Export operation, but that generates pixelated images that mess up small traces. I then photocopy it to overhead transparency. Kinko's self-serve printers will not let you print to acetate, but they will let you photocopy onto it.
The self-serve printers are a tenth of the cost of going up to the counter, so this two-step method is well worth it. Why not print it at home? Printers are bulky, ink is ridiculously overpriced, and Kinko's self-serve is 10 cents a sheet. That's a lot of PCBs for the cost of owning a printer. I got a bit sloppy with mine while touching up the three large pads.
You can see the result of that in the final product. Next, I use the photoresist method to transfer the pattern to the board.
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